[quote=SkyDog]Higher than those heads are intended to go. The For that kind of sound nowadays, I'd probably go with an Evans MX White or maybe a Remo Cybermax.

Are the MX Whites stiffer than Black maxes and Hybrids?

The Evans Hybrids and Remo White/Black Max are designed to have a little more stretch or give to them than a customary fiber head. The Remo heads use Technora aramid fiber, which is somewhat more elastic than KevlarŪ, in sort of a herringbone weave to pull it off. Evans' approach for the Hybrid uses two different fibers -- one's a typical high-strength fiber and the other one has a little more elasticity to it. Cranking the living daylights out of these heads kinda defeats the purpose of the "stretch" designed into them.

The MX White is a more traditional fiber head with less of the subtle "stretchiness" of a White/Black Max or Hybrid. It's suited for higher tension than those heads, but doesn't have the concrete feel of the old Remo Falam heads.

Hi, I lead the drumline of my relatively small high school of about 1000. About 5 years ago we bought 4 Pearl Championship Maple FFX marching snares fitted with Remo WeatherKing White Max tops heads and Remo WeatherKing Falams II bottom heads. It has the plastic snares. The previous members have neglected to tune them so I figured it was about time. When we tuned them all we were able to produce was a hollow, but very crisp, sound. We can't get the snares to sing out. Any suggestions?

The bottom head is usually the culprit when it comes to poor sound quality. First, make sure the bottom head is actually a bottom head! Some people mistake the Falam batters for resonant heads. Next, make sure the head is seated correctly, and is in tune with itself lug to lug. (Really try to get it at close as you can, very important!)

Also, make sure the snare unit is aligned correctly with the snare beds cut into the shell. This is very often overlooked and greatly effects snare response.

Best bet would be to back the heads off and start over. Grease up the lugs and start cranking up slowly! General consensus is the bottom head should be tuned roughly a third higher than the top for the best snare response.

Best of luck!

I used to tune my personal snares a minor third (m3) higher; but, I've switched to tuning them m3 lower and really like it. They sound much "snary-er" and can still have a short snare response through adjusting the snare strand tension.

I say "experiment!" Mess with the drums and try things out! Find the ballance between the "wet" (longer lasting snare sound) and "dry" (short snare sound) ends of the spectrum that suits your line/band/show. I recommend starting with a looser bottom head and tighten it up in, say, 1/2-step increments. Using multiple drums, each tuning can be compared to the others.

Regardless, remember that over-cranking the bottom head "chokes" the snare response -- the resonant head has to move to make the snares move => more movement produces more snare response. An extremely tight bottom head doesn't move much, and that may be the current problem.

I had a new musical experience today. I sent my 4 concert snares to our local percussion studio to have heads exchanged and have them tuned. The guy did such a tremendous job. I for the first time truly heard the difference between our 14x6 Yamaha wood shell, Tama signature snare (metal) 14x5, Yamaha 14x3 brass piccolo, and ludwig 13x3 maple piccolo. (I am a brass guy) I have taught a long time and I have never had a concert snare(s) sound so good. My hat off to you guys who are really able to tune drums.

Pearl Competitor Series
Black Max/Clear Ambassador

Use any of the methods listed above to put the heads on. There are a lot of good methods out there and it would be worth the time to read through them. After you get the heads on give the drum a tap. If you're lacking snare response, then keep reading. If you love the sound, then good for you. SkyDog did an excellent job explaining the reason that a lot of people with pearl competitors are lacking snare response. It is absolutely CRITICAL that the strainer is lined up correctly. It should be directly below the vents on either side of the drum. This ensures that the guts will be in full contact with the resonant head across the whole drum. After the strainer is aligned properly, turn the tension knob all the way up and tighten each gut all the way. Throw the snares off and slide a pencil underneath the guts to the opposite side, then throw the snares back on again (for more detailed instructions, google "how to tune marching snare guts"). Strum the guts with a guitar pick or coin. Pick out the lowest pitched gut, and then tune the rest of the guts to that pitch. After that, take out the pencil, put the snares on, and then test the drum. Loosen the tension knob until you get the sound you want.

I hope i could help and good luck!
-Alex

I keep getting the roller coaster effect right where the snare beds are on my Yamaha SFZ..The head is under way less tension there. I can clearly see 4 points of tension but can seem to figure out how to spread that out evenly...

Ive loosened it and started over a couple of times..using the suggested clockwise technique first.. started over used diagonal tech... but keep getting the same effect...
What gives?

Suggestions anyone?

Thanks

Is it a Mylar (clear plastic) head? If so, I've had similar experience with sFz's, maybe because the cast rim is so rigid. Just apply tension and give the head some time (up to a few days) to seat, stretch, and conform to the snare bed.

Back in my day all we had was Mylar, we would take a hair drier and warm the head up just a little. this was a common practice back in 1980s, just don't heat it to much and you'll be fine. Evans talks about this on there web site and recommends the practice to get rid of wrinkles and too help the head seat.

Here is a link to Evans site and a video from Bob Gatzen, in his dvd he talks about the hair drier trick. but this is just video from the Evans site.

CAUTION.... Do not over heat the head! warming up the head under heavy tension will distroy the head.